Crepe myrtles add splashes of color during long, hot months|[07/19/08]
Published 12:00 am Friday, July 18, 2008
IN THE GARDEN
July heat is hard on many plants and trees.
This area may go without substantial rain for weeks in the summer, but one of our best performers seems to be oblivious to such conditions. Native to China, the crepe myrtle caught on quickly after being introduced to Southern gardeners more than 150 years ago.
Many selections of crepe myrtle are readily available. Some grow quite large and are an ideal choice to use as a small, blooming tree for your landscape. Natchez – a white, heavily flowered selection – can easily grow to 30 feet and produce flowers for 110 days. Another long bloomer is Muskogee, a light lavender that grows broad and tall like the Natchez but only to about 20 feet high. Tuscarora, a dark coral pink selection, grows in the shape of a vase and may stand 23 feet with 70 days of blooms. Two with upright growth habits are Dynamite, a cherry red, and Miami, a dark pink. They top out at 20 feet but produce flowers for about 100 days each summer season.
Flowerbeds closer to a house, patio or courtyard may call for a smaller crepe myrtle. Sioux, which has bright pink blooms, and Yuma, which has lavender, both grow to about 15 feet tall with blooms for 90 days. Acoma, which has distinctive pure white blooms and a unique spreading growth habit, may reach 10 feet tall as will Tonto, a bright deep-red flowering tree with an upright growth habit.
Landscapers have fueled the demand for even smaller crepe myrtles to use in containers and as foundation shrubs. Chickasaw, a true dwarf variety with pink-lavender flowers, and Centennial, of bright purple, grow to only 3 feet in height. Pixie White and World’s Fair, which has deep red flowers, are some of the smallest at a mature height of about 2 feet.
All crepe myrtles should be planted in a sunny location. Fewer than eight hours of sun is one of the major reasons they fail to bloom. Heavy aphid infestation can also limit flowering potential as can a lack of fertilization. Fertilize early in the spring when new growth begins to emerge and again six to eight weeks later with 8x8x8 or 13x13x13.
Powdery mildew is one of a crepe myrtle’s most common disease problems. Space plants far enough apart to allow adequate air circulation, and spray them with a fungicide to prevent or control the disease. Better yet, choose cultivars that are bred to be resistant to powdery mildew. Most have Indian names and the fact that they are mildew resistant should be listed on the grower’s tag.
Crepe myrtles bloom on the current year’s growth, so pruning in early spring will stimulate new growth and more blooms. Spent blooms and seed heads can be pruned to encourage more blooms and extend the season. Many years ago, an article in Southern Living mentioned that crepe myrtles may produce as many as three sets of blooms if spent blooms are removed promptly throughout the summer.
After the blooms are gone, many crepe myrtles produce beautiful fall color. Their peeling bark makes them attractive in the dead of winter. With a life span of 50-plus years, this drought-tolerant, blooming tree is definitely a wise choice for any Southern garden.
Miriam Jabour, a Master Gardener and master flower show judge, has been active with the Vicksburg Council of Garden Clubs for more than 20 years. Write to her at 1114 Windy Lake Drive, Vicksburg, MS 39183.